Lilou dazzles the senses from the moment patrons enter the doors. The rich woodwork and elegant lighting in the lobby (shared by Hotel Cleo and Lilou) offers only hints of what lies beyond. Just past the reception counter an array of sensations await. Art in every direction, the elegant bar, cozy tables, and booths booths beckon. The space, which got loving attention from co-owner Jessica King (who picked out and personally found most of the art), also benefited from the hard work of Design Innovation Architects, spearheaded by Oren Yarbrough. Streetsense also contributed input.
Stuffy? No. Art fills the room with beautiful and fun pieces just waiting to be discovered. Look closely and you’ll find pieces that might have scandalized downtowners of another era. The space could serve as entertainment if there was no food. The soft lighting encourages a leisurely experience, whether there for cocktails, food, or both.
Urban Woman and I met Nina Reineri and her daughter Elena recently, for one of the soft opening nights. We agreed it felt as if we’d entered another place and, perhaps, time. The attention to detail in providing something entirely different in the restaurant is evident throughout. I’m reminded of a similar feeling in owners Jessica King and Aaron Thompson’s other signature restaurant, Osteria Stella. The amount of loving attention is obvious in every direction. For those who remember Sapphire, you’ll quickly forget you are in the same space.
The food, of course, is also very different for downtown Knoxville. Executive Chef Ben Tilatti and Sous Chef, Earl Whitney provide a menu that is a warm mix of the more familiar, with the more challenging culinary adventures. The menu displays drawings and the names of each, along with Hailee Vanlandingham, Executive Pastry Chef, and Aaron Thompson, who is not only co-owner, but the Wine Director. I’ve never seen credit given so prominently on a menu and I appreciated it and each of them deserve the credit.
The restaurant contains two kitchens, with the primary kitchen upstairs and the pastry kitchen below. We enjoyed watching the dance of the staff in the upstairs kitchen as they kept the dishes flowing flawlessly on a very early night in their tenure. There was little indication that the restaurant had not been operational for years. Manager Brad Poyner, who many of us know from Osteria Stella, clearly set a high bar for service. Our server, Cecil, provided in-depth explanations to our questions (and we had more than a few) and engaged us in a friendly and professional manner. Fresh from L.A., he was a delight and we’ll hope to have him serve us again.
I failed to keep track of all the dishes our table enjoyed, but I’ll give you what I photographed and remembered. We shared two appetizers, Escargots (Slow cooked snails, Persillade Emulsion, Lemon – $16) and Poulpe (Octopus à la Gallega – $16) and enjoyed each one. I took the bulk of the escargots, which I’d never had before, and enjoyed the earthiness. I’m not sure it will be a favorite, but I’m glad I tried it. The consensus on the octopus had it among the best we’d ever had. I’m not a huge fan, but this was good.
From that point I mostly tracked the dishes Urban Woman and I enjoyed. She had the Soupe à l’Oignon (Onion Soup, Gruyère Chesse, Toasted Bread – $13), and I took a few bites. Beyond delicious, perhaps made extraordinary by both the cheese and the house-made bread. We will definitely return to that one.
She ordered the Bourguignon (Oxtail Stew, Grand Mother Purée, Bourguignonne Sauce – $31) and I ordered the Tournedos Rossini (Prime Beef Tenderloin, Foie Gras, Truffles, Madeira Sauce – $56). We both liked the Bourguignon and would consider getting it again. I loved the Tournedos Rossini and will definitely consider ordering it in the future.
For the sake of sharing our experience with the city, we sacrificed our stretching bellies and ordered the Tarte au Citron (Lemon Curd, Meringue, Lemon Verbena – $15), which we enjoyed and split among the four of us. There was plenty. I had a double espresso with the dessert, as American coffee is not available. I’ve got my eye on Crème Brûlée for the next visit.
In short, we loved every minute and every bite and we’ll definitely return. Was it expensive? Yes. With tip, we dropped about $230 for two and that was with a discount everyone got at the soft opening. That said, we’d likely never spend that much again. We over-ate so we could try a range of items and we would not do that next time. We agreed that the soup and one entree would be enough for us We each had a cocktail and I had a more expensive glass of wine than I would ordinarily order (Bordeaux-Margaux, $30) and there were delicious options available for $12 to $15. We could bring it in at less than $100 if we tried.
Whether you go for drinks, for appetizers, or for a full meal, you will not be disappointed. You’ll get your money’s worth before the first bite, just stepping into the place. And that first bite? It will have you coming back for more. We have a new restaurant to add to our list of favorites.
The restaurant is open seven days a week at 5:00 pm for dinner and on Saturday and Sunday, brunch is served from 11:00 am to 2:30 pm.